Foredeck Primer
This is a great read, written by a friend of mine.
Foredeck Primer
by: K. Chauncey Wu
Before The Race
Dress for success. Expect to get wet under all conditions except light
air.
Determine your class start time, and write it down if necessary. I
keep track of the time to the start on my own watch.
Check that all spinnakers are packed. Tie all three corners of the
spin together with the head in the middle. This will indicate that
the spin is ready to go, and will help you set up at night or in foul
weather.
For a hatch launch, tie one end of a sail tie to the hatch, and tie
the other end through the corners of the packed spin. I tie one to
the .5 oz spin, and another to the .75 oz spin. Then I can pull up
either sail's corners on deck to rig it.
Run the sheets and guys through their blocks. Then double-check that
everything is run correctly, especially if someone helps you.
Make sure that the spin halyards are untwisted. To stow them, I flip
them behind the shrouds, then clip them off at the mast base and pull
them taut. Make sure you know how to clear the halyard for a clean
spin hoist.
Check the spin pole jaws for smooth action, and lube them if necessary.
Tape or cover all exposed fittings (cleats, hatch handles, etc.)
which could foul lines or tear sails.
Label each corner of the sail inventory, and write the sail code (L1,
H1, 0.5, 0.75, etc.) on the sail. This will help avoid any confusion
during sail changes.
When tying jib sheets on with bowlines, make the loops as small as
possible so they do not foul anything. Leave 6-9 inches of tail in
the knots because they can back out, especially if the line is new.
Carry a sail tie, or have one tied at the mast. I use them to secure
the headsail to the foredeck, among other things.
Work out any starting hand signals with the driver. I typically show
fingers to indicate the number of boat lengths from the bow
perpendicular to the start line.
On a dip-pole boat, place both the spin sheet and guy in the spin
pole jaw. This keeps the spin sheet from getting trapped under the
spin pole jaw, and helps to ensure that the first jibe is a clean one.
On a dip-pole boat, mark the spin pole track and topping lift
positions for the jibe. Also mark the spin guys to ensure that you
have enough slack to reach the bow pulpit before a jibe.
At The Start
Have the driver go around both ends of the start line. Look for a
building, radio tower, etc. on shore which is even with the start
line. This line sight will help you determine how far off of the
line you are.
Call closing traffic for the driver, especially when you are on port
tack.
Pull the foot of the headsail to the forestay to help it around the
mast during the pre-start maneuvers. This will pull the clew
forward, and speed the tack or jibe.
Be careful when jibing the blade jib, as the full-length top batten
can wrap tightly around the forestay. Very bad. Pull down and back
on the clew during the jibe to help prevent this. Also make sure the
trimmers keep tension on the sheets during the jibe.
Have your mastman do the last skirt at the start, so you can stay up
front and call the line.
Place the boat on the line at the gun. Be sure take any current
effects into account. Being OCS is not unusual.
On The Upwind Leg
Call waves, puffs, crab pots, and starboard traffic.
Help get the jib around during the tacks. On smaller boats (~30 ft)
I stand at the mast, and push the jib around. On larger boats (~40
ft), I lay down or kneel on deck next to the hatch and let the jib
sweep over me. Then skirt the jib.
Attach the spin sheets, guys and halyard to the sail. Make doubly
sure that the shackles are fully closed.
After the spin halyard is attached, hold it taut forward of the
shrouds while tacking. Otherwise, it will foul the clew of the jib
and slow the tack down.
If you do a rail launch, make sure that the spin bag is securely
closed. Large waves can beat the spin out of the bag, especially
with the blade jib up. Very slow. In these conditions, clip the top
of the bag to the upper lifeline in front of a stanchion. Also clip
the bottom of the bag to the lower lifeline or the toerail.
If you need to bring the spin gear around to the other side of the
boat (e.g., for a jibe set), clip all of the fittings together, and
get someone in the back of the boat to pull the spin gear to the
other side of the boat for you.
On an end-for-end boat, to reload the guy in the spin pole, slide the
spin pole back along the weather rail until you can reach the jaw,
keeping your weight up and off the bow. Make sure the bridle is not
twisted around the spin pole.
At The Weather Mark
Open the spin bag or forward hatch, and raise the spin pole. Check
that the bridle is not twisted around the spin pole.
On a dip-pole boat, hook up the topping lift over the lazy jib sheet
when doing a bearaway set. This will simplify the first jibe, since
the jib sheet won't fall into the spin pole jaw during the jibe.
If you're doing a jibe set, the topping lift must be under the lazy
jib sheet. Keep tension in the topping lift during the jibe to keep
it from fouling the clew of the jib.
On a dip-pole boat, pull both the guy and lazy sheet through the spin
pole jaw when pre-feeding the tack of the spin.
Control the spin during the pre-guy and pre-hoist. If it is not
banded, wrap your arms around the head and tack of the spin to
prevent it from inflating prematurely.
Feed the spin out quickly during the hoist. Watch for snags which
will tear the spin.
If the spin has an hourglass, pull down on the miter (centerline
seam) or luff tapes. If that doesn't work, ease the halyard 5-10
feet and try again.
Pull the headsail down, back, and into the boat. If the pit dumps
the halyard too fast, stop the jib from going into the water by
pinching the sail at the bottom of the luff track.
Put the head of the sail through the pre-feeder and into the luff
track. Attach the jib halyard to a strop or tack fitting so the pit
can grind the rig forward.
On The Downwind Leg
Call waves, puffs, crab pots, and starboard traffic.
In an end-for-end jibe, have your mastman pull the new guy inboard so
you can reach it. Try to shake the spin pole at the mast. When you
can rattle it, disconnect it from the mast.
Take the new guy from your mastman and load it into the spin pole
end. I think that this is faster than having someone else do it.
Push the spin pole outboard and forward, and attach the spin pole to
the mast. Get your mastman to help you if necessary.
During the jibe, put the jib sheet over your shoulder, then dip the
spin pole underneath it. This gets the jib sheets set up properly
for the leeward mark rounding.
For a dip-pole jibe, pull the lazy guy to your mark, leaving enough
slack to reach the bow pulpit.
Stand in the pulpit facing aft. Call "Ready!" This is the trimmer's
cue to load the new guy on the winch, but NOT to pull the slack out.
Yell at them if they do.
Hold the new guy with your thumb pointing towards the clew of the
spin. Pull the spin pole towards you with the foreguy using your
other hand.
Place the new guy into the spin pole jaw with your thumb pointing
towards the centerline of the boat. Trigger the jaw closed, and call
"Made!" This is the trimmer's cue to pull the guy back.
Push the spin pole away from you hard. Having the spin pole hit you
is not fun.
After the jibe, flip the new lazy sheet inboard of the new guy, so it
doesn't foul the spin pole jaw on the next jibe. Then pull slack in
the new lazy guy to prepare for the next jibe.
At The Leeward Mark
Stretch the jib out on the leeward side of the boat when on final
approach into the leeward mark. Make sure the sail is not trapped
under the foreguy, and that the jib sheets are set up correctly.
If you haven't already done so, flip the lazy jib sheet over the pole
when on final approach. If you are doing a jibe rounding, then get
the lazy sheet over the topping lift. If you can't, then you will
need to unhook the topping lift from the bridle to make the boat
clear to tack.
Pull slack in the topping lift, and secure it to a cleat at the mast.
I prefer to control the topping lift during the leeward mark rounding.
When raising the jib, keep the luff together and flaked forward.
Watch the sail as it goes through the pre-feeder, as the sail can jam
if it is hoisted too quickly.
For a weather douse, have your mastman hold the guy out, and get the
spin pole down and stowed on deck. Pull the spin down and into the
boat. Your first priority should be to get the foot of the spin in
the boat, so that the boat does not drive over it and park.
For a leeward douse, grab the lazy guy (if you have one), sheet or
spin foot, and pull the spin in under the jib. Get the foot of the
spin in, and collapse the spin by gathering it diagonally across the
tack, towards the luff.
Make sure that the jib sheets are not trapped under the spin pole, or
behind the topping lift or spin halyard, then call "Clear to tack!"
If you do a hatch launch, don't disconnect the sheets and guys, and
trap the spin head in the hatch. The theory is that it went in
right, so it will come out right the next time.
Stuff the spin below and stow the spin halyard. Skirt the jib. Get
bodies on the rail ASAP, and clean up later.
If you did a leeward douse, then the spin gear will probably have to
be pulled around to the other side of the boat on the upwind leg.
Clip the sheets and halyard together and pull them around to the
correct side of the boat.
After the boat gets going, repack the spin if necessary, reload, and
do it again!
______________________________________
K. Chauncey Wu
Foredeck Primer
by: K. Chauncey Wu
Before The Race
Dress for success. Expect to get wet under all conditions except light
air.
Determine your class start time, and write it down if necessary. I
keep track of the time to the start on my own watch.
Check that all spinnakers are packed. Tie all three corners of the
spin together with the head in the middle. This will indicate that
the spin is ready to go, and will help you set up at night or in foul
weather.
For a hatch launch, tie one end of a sail tie to the hatch, and tie
the other end through the corners of the packed spin. I tie one to
the .5 oz spin, and another to the .75 oz spin. Then I can pull up
either sail's corners on deck to rig it.
Run the sheets and guys through their blocks. Then double-check that
everything is run correctly, especially if someone helps you.
Make sure that the spin halyards are untwisted. To stow them, I flip
them behind the shrouds, then clip them off at the mast base and pull
them taut. Make sure you know how to clear the halyard for a clean
spin hoist.
Check the spin pole jaws for smooth action, and lube them if necessary.
Tape or cover all exposed fittings (cleats, hatch handles, etc.)
which could foul lines or tear sails.
Label each corner of the sail inventory, and write the sail code (L1,
H1, 0.5, 0.75, etc.) on the sail. This will help avoid any confusion
during sail changes.
When tying jib sheets on with bowlines, make the loops as small as
possible so they do not foul anything. Leave 6-9 inches of tail in
the knots because they can back out, especially if the line is new.
Carry a sail tie, or have one tied at the mast. I use them to secure
the headsail to the foredeck, among other things.
Work out any starting hand signals with the driver. I typically show
fingers to indicate the number of boat lengths from the bow
perpendicular to the start line.
On a dip-pole boat, place both the spin sheet and guy in the spin
pole jaw. This keeps the spin sheet from getting trapped under the
spin pole jaw, and helps to ensure that the first jibe is a clean one.
On a dip-pole boat, mark the spin pole track and topping lift
positions for the jibe. Also mark the spin guys to ensure that you
have enough slack to reach the bow pulpit before a jibe.
At The Start
Have the driver go around both ends of the start line. Look for a
building, radio tower, etc. on shore which is even with the start
line. This line sight will help you determine how far off of the
line you are.
Call closing traffic for the driver, especially when you are on port
tack.
Pull the foot of the headsail to the forestay to help it around the
mast during the pre-start maneuvers. This will pull the clew
forward, and speed the tack or jibe.
Be careful when jibing the blade jib, as the full-length top batten
can wrap tightly around the forestay. Very bad. Pull down and back
on the clew during the jibe to help prevent this. Also make sure the
trimmers keep tension on the sheets during the jibe.
Have your mastman do the last skirt at the start, so you can stay up
front and call the line.
Place the boat on the line at the gun. Be sure take any current
effects into account. Being OCS is not unusual.
On The Upwind Leg
Call waves, puffs, crab pots, and starboard traffic.
Help get the jib around during the tacks. On smaller boats (~30 ft)
I stand at the mast, and push the jib around. On larger boats (~40
ft), I lay down or kneel on deck next to the hatch and let the jib
sweep over me. Then skirt the jib.
Attach the spin sheets, guys and halyard to the sail. Make doubly
sure that the shackles are fully closed.
After the spin halyard is attached, hold it taut forward of the
shrouds while tacking. Otherwise, it will foul the clew of the jib
and slow the tack down.
If you do a rail launch, make sure that the spin bag is securely
closed. Large waves can beat the spin out of the bag, especially
with the blade jib up. Very slow. In these conditions, clip the top
of the bag to the upper lifeline in front of a stanchion. Also clip
the bottom of the bag to the lower lifeline or the toerail.
If you need to bring the spin gear around to the other side of the
boat (e.g., for a jibe set), clip all of the fittings together, and
get someone in the back of the boat to pull the spin gear to the
other side of the boat for you.
On an end-for-end boat, to reload the guy in the spin pole, slide the
spin pole back along the weather rail until you can reach the jaw,
keeping your weight up and off the bow. Make sure the bridle is not
twisted around the spin pole.
At The Weather Mark
Open the spin bag or forward hatch, and raise the spin pole. Check
that the bridle is not twisted around the spin pole.
On a dip-pole boat, hook up the topping lift over the lazy jib sheet
when doing a bearaway set. This will simplify the first jibe, since
the jib sheet won't fall into the spin pole jaw during the jibe.
If you're doing a jibe set, the topping lift must be under the lazy
jib sheet. Keep tension in the topping lift during the jibe to keep
it from fouling the clew of the jib.
On a dip-pole boat, pull both the guy and lazy sheet through the spin
pole jaw when pre-feeding the tack of the spin.
Control the spin during the pre-guy and pre-hoist. If it is not
banded, wrap your arms around the head and tack of the spin to
prevent it from inflating prematurely.
Feed the spin out quickly during the hoist. Watch for snags which
will tear the spin.
If the spin has an hourglass, pull down on the miter (centerline
seam) or luff tapes. If that doesn't work, ease the halyard 5-10
feet and try again.
Pull the headsail down, back, and into the boat. If the pit dumps
the halyard too fast, stop the jib from going into the water by
pinching the sail at the bottom of the luff track.
Put the head of the sail through the pre-feeder and into the luff
track. Attach the jib halyard to a strop or tack fitting so the pit
can grind the rig forward.
On The Downwind Leg
Call waves, puffs, crab pots, and starboard traffic.
In an end-for-end jibe, have your mastman pull the new guy inboard so
you can reach it. Try to shake the spin pole at the mast. When you
can rattle it, disconnect it from the mast.
Take the new guy from your mastman and load it into the spin pole
end. I think that this is faster than having someone else do it.
Push the spin pole outboard and forward, and attach the spin pole to
the mast. Get your mastman to help you if necessary.
During the jibe, put the jib sheet over your shoulder, then dip the
spin pole underneath it. This gets the jib sheets set up properly
for the leeward mark rounding.
For a dip-pole jibe, pull the lazy guy to your mark, leaving enough
slack to reach the bow pulpit.
Stand in the pulpit facing aft. Call "Ready!" This is the trimmer's
cue to load the new guy on the winch, but NOT to pull the slack out.
Yell at them if they do.
Hold the new guy with your thumb pointing towards the clew of the
spin. Pull the spin pole towards you with the foreguy using your
other hand.
Place the new guy into the spin pole jaw with your thumb pointing
towards the centerline of the boat. Trigger the jaw closed, and call
"Made!" This is the trimmer's cue to pull the guy back.
Push the spin pole away from you hard. Having the spin pole hit you
is not fun.
After the jibe, flip the new lazy sheet inboard of the new guy, so it
doesn't foul the spin pole jaw on the next jibe. Then pull slack in
the new lazy guy to prepare for the next jibe.
At The Leeward Mark
Stretch the jib out on the leeward side of the boat when on final
approach into the leeward mark. Make sure the sail is not trapped
under the foreguy, and that the jib sheets are set up correctly.
If you haven't already done so, flip the lazy jib sheet over the pole
when on final approach. If you are doing a jibe rounding, then get
the lazy sheet over the topping lift. If you can't, then you will
need to unhook the topping lift from the bridle to make the boat
clear to tack.
Pull slack in the topping lift, and secure it to a cleat at the mast.
I prefer to control the topping lift during the leeward mark rounding.
When raising the jib, keep the luff together and flaked forward.
Watch the sail as it goes through the pre-feeder, as the sail can jam
if it is hoisted too quickly.
For a weather douse, have your mastman hold the guy out, and get the
spin pole down and stowed on deck. Pull the spin down and into the
boat. Your first priority should be to get the foot of the spin in
the boat, so that the boat does not drive over it and park.
For a leeward douse, grab the lazy guy (if you have one), sheet or
spin foot, and pull the spin in under the jib. Get the foot of the
spin in, and collapse the spin by gathering it diagonally across the
tack, towards the luff.
Make sure that the jib sheets are not trapped under the spin pole, or
behind the topping lift or spin halyard, then call "Clear to tack!"
If you do a hatch launch, don't disconnect the sheets and guys, and
trap the spin head in the hatch. The theory is that it went in
right, so it will come out right the next time.
Stuff the spin below and stow the spin halyard. Skirt the jib. Get
bodies on the rail ASAP, and clean up later.
If you did a leeward douse, then the spin gear will probably have to
be pulled around to the other side of the boat on the upwind leg.
Clip the sheets and halyard together and pull them around to the
correct side of the boat.
After the boat gets going, repack the spin if necessary, reload, and
do it again!
______________________________________
K. Chauncey Wu
posted by Jon at 9/21/2006
4 Comments:
Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!
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