Tunes on da boat

Kick ass sound with dual power, runs on 12volts DC & 120volts AC. I have this system in the boat now. I mounted the sub behind the forward bulkhead. I plug in my Sirius satalite radio & our portable DVD & MP3 player's. Works great sounds great! Check out Cambridge Sound

Pics from the LOCCR 2006 @ PYC Part III

More great shots!

Pics from the LOCCR 2006 @ PYC Part II

some more great shots!

Pics from the LOCCR 2006 @ PYC Part I

These great shots are from the first ever Beneteau First 235 Regatta, it was held at the Pultneyville Yacht Club on Lake Ontario August 12th & 13th 2006.
Next year's Regatta will be held at Crescent Yacht Club.
Be sure to click the photo's for their full size splendor......

Pics of Pandora from LYRA 2006 @ SBYC Part III

Thanks go to Wolf Tinz, who took these great photo's. click each photo for it's full size madness!

Pics of Pandora from LYRA 2006 @ SBYC Part II

Thanks go to Wolf Tinz, who took these great photo's. click each photo for it's full size madness!

Pics of Pandora from LYRA 2006 @ SBYC Part I

I have been trying to post 5 pictures in a single post for awhile, but it seems that the layout won't work? I get overlaps of the pictures after publishing them so I will make several posts with just 2 pictures each.........

Thanks go to Wolf Tinz who took these great photo's. click each photo for it's full size madness!

The musical Pandora

i was looking to see if the domain Pandora.com was available, wow what a find! great program for finding new artists, not to mention just a bunch of great music. you would be foolish not to check it out for yourself.


Ever since we started the Music Genome Project, our friends would ask:

Can you help me discover more music that I'll like?

Those questions often evolved into great conversations. Each friend told us their favorite artists and songs, explored the music we suggested, gave us feedback, and we in turn made new suggestions. Everybody started joking that we were now their personal DJs.

We created Pandora so that we can have that same kind of conversation with you.

Sail information for the First 235 from Haarstick Sailmakers

Click the pic on the right to view Haarstick Sailmakers information sheet. Right now they are having a 23% off sale.

Garmin 4 plug

A wonderful drawing.

GPS COORDINATES FOR HARBORS ON LAKE ONTARIO

GPS COORDINATES FOR HARBORS ON LAKE ONTARIO

Use at your own risk.

US Ports
Rochester................. 43 15.83' N x 77 35.89' W
Point Breeze............. 43 22.64' N x 78 11.53' W
Olcott....................... 43 20.46' N x 78 43.16' W
Wilson...........………43 19.19' N x 78 50.21' W
Youngstown.............. 43 15.76' N x 79 04.07' W
Niagara on Lake....... 43 15.76' N x 79 04.07' W
Cape Vincent............ 44 07.96' N x 76 20.69' W
Mud Bay.................. 44 04.10' N x 76 20.69' W
Chaumont................. 44 02.51' N x 76 08.67' W
Sackets Harbor......... 43 57.13' N x 76 08.72' W
Henderson Harbor..... 43 51.77' N x 76 12.49' W
Oswego.................... 43 28.50' N x 76 31.00' W
Little Sodus Bay........ 43 21.20' N x 76 42.50' W
Sodus Bay................ 43 16.65' N x 76 58.40' W
Pultneyville............... 43 17.10' N x 77 10.90' W
Irondequoit................ 43 15.12' N x 77 32.00' W
Alexandria Bay......... 44 20.28' N x 75 55.55' W
Clayton..................... 44 14.62' N x 76 06.05' W



Canadian Ports
Port Weller............... 43 14.75' N x 79 13.00' W
Port Dalhousie.......... 43 12.72' N x 79 15.85' W
Grimsby.................... 43 12.20' N x 79 33.07' W
Fifty Point................. 43 13.62' N x 79 37.33' W
Hamilton................... 43 18.10' N x 79 47.41' W
Bronte...................... 43 23.55' N x 79 42.32' W
Oakville.................... 43 26.31' N x 79 39.92' W
Port Credit................ 43 32.80' N x 79 34.66' W
Toronto West............ 43 37.58' N x 79 24.85' W
Toronto ( West Gap).. 43 37.69' N x 79 24.38' W
Toronto (Main).......... 43 36.66' N x 79 20.79' W
Toronto (East Gap).... 43 37.86' N x 79 20.84' W
Ashbridge Bay........... 43 39.40' N x 79 18.80' W
Bluffers Park............. 43 42.60' N x 79 13.60' W
Frenchman's Bay....... 43 48.61' N x 79 05.18' W
Whitby...................... 43 50.92' N x 78 55.65' W
Oshawa.................... 43 51.85' N x 78 49.32' W
Port Darlington.......... 43 53.16' N x 78 39.82' W
Port of Newcastle...... 43 53.44' N x 78 34.55' W
Port Hope................. 43 56.36' N x 78 17.43' W
Cobourg.................... 43 57.04' N x 78 09.75' W
Presqu'ile Bay........... 43 59.95' N x 77 39.80' W
Trenton..................... 44 05.93' N x 77 30.87' W
Belleville................... 44 08.96' N x 77 22.38' W
Deseronto................. 44 11.57' N x 77 02.69' W
Picton....................... 44 01.17' N x 77 07.80' W
Bath......................... 44 10.42' N x 76 45.75' W
Amherst Is................ 44 06.56' N x 76 48.38' W
Collins Bay................ 44 13.10' N x 76 37.50' W
Gananoque................ 44 19.26' N x 76 09.55' W
Kingston................... 44 13.00' N x 76 30.88' W
Waupoos Is............... 43 57.65' N x 76 59.64' W
Main Duck Is............ 43 55.63' N x 76 36.77' W

10 man crew

10-man crew
Bow

Prestart:
Pulpit, shore ranges, call traffic, call line, run time, set pole, hookups
Tacking:
go forward under sail, pull jib across, skirt jib
Upwind:
lead man on rail, sail changes, hookups, pole reset,
Set:
assist chute under jib
Downwind:
sail resets/changes,
Jibe:
in pulpit, bring lazy guy forward, pull pole in w/foreguy, insert new forguy, call "MADE"
Douse:
in sewer pulling chute into forward hatch, assisting with pole down, call "CLEAR TO TACK" when clear

Mast

Prestart:
at mast or on rail, position on rail is 2nd behind bowman. Jump halyard on main set, jump halyard on jib set.
Tacking:
in front of mast, clear jib clew around shrouds
Upwind:
assist bow with sail sets or changes when needed. When possible stay on rail until needed, call puffs, windshifts and tide lines, top inboard end of pole as we come into the windward mark
Set:
jump spinnaker halyard, when up call "TWO-BLOCKED"
Downwind:
assist with pole top on mark rounding, assist with chute set if needed, adjust inboard pole end if needed, relead jib sheets for change, jump jib halyard on set
Jibe:
on "Prepare to Jibe" mast uncleats and raises mast end of pole to mark. on "Trip" mast pulls trip line to free working guy from pole jaw. on "Made" jump topping lift and resets pole inboard end in normal position.
Douse:
gathering chute in and feeding to bowman in the forward hatch. Get pole down as soon as is possible but do not sacrifice boatspeed to windward if it is not a priority. Do not drop pole on hatch or bowman's head. Assist bowman in clearing lines once pole is down to call for "Clear to Tack."

Mid

Prestart:
Rail, assist in jib set, if necessary. Help feed main into track. Stay behind mast unless necessary. Adjust cunningham, outhaul and vang as called by main trimmer.
Tacking:
Go under boom to new high side
Upwind:
3rd on rail behind bow and mast
Set:
Help jump halyard if necessary, assist pit with halyards if necessary
Downwind:
Vang on, dump outhaul and cunningham, listen for weight balance calls, help jump jib halyard if necessary, hold out boom if required
Jibe:
Release vang (check with main trimmer)
Douse:
Work with main traimmer to harden up outhaul, help gather if necessary or assist pit with grinding if necessary

Pit

Prestart:
Tail halyards for main and jib. Tension running backs if necessary (usually we leave runners off for prestart), Call time, relay messages forward, support bowman at all times -- every extra second she is *not* on the bow is time and speed saved. During final approach, set windward runner with main trimmer.
Tacking:
Move off rail to hatch way. On "Ready About" uncleat windward runner, on "Helm's Down" release old runner and tail in new windward runner, grind if necessary. Try to finish by the time the jib and main load up.
Upwind:
Rail 4th back between mid and chute grinder/tailer2, runner adjustments/halyard adjustments, flake jib halyard prior to set, top pole on final approach to mark.
Set:
Tail spinn halyard, release jib halyard
Downwind:
Weight balance, pole adjustments, spaghetti patrol Jibe: on "Square Back" set up topper to mark for release. On "Trip" open spinlock and release topper to mark. on "Made" tail in to bring pole up to previous position. Pole should come up as guy trimmer brings it back.
Douse:
Tail jib halyard for jib set, flake spinn halyard to cabin top, on "Douse" release spinn halyard until chute is over the water then watch for the gather and release halyard. Release topping lift when bowman/mast is ready.

Tailer2/chute grinder

( tailer will switch off with tailer 1 on tacking, as needed)

Prestart:
On rail, assist pit in grinding for jib halyard set
Tacking:
Under boom
Upwind:
On rail between pit and tailer 1, call puffs, wind lines, tide lines, etc.
Spinnaker Set:
Grinder for spinn sheet
Downwind:
Grinder for spinn sheet
Jibe:
Grinder on new spinn sheet and/or new guy if required
Douse:
Clear spinn sheet on douse

Tailer1/Chute trimmer

Prestart:
In cabin with trimmer
Tacking:
Tail in new jib sheet, tail up to high side while timmer grinds
Upwind:
On rail between tailer2 and trimmer
Spinnaker Set:
Pull back and trim sheet
Downwind:
Trim sheet
Jibe:
Sheet to sheet free fly with grinder standing by (if light enough)
Douse:
Clear sheet, lazy sheet and guy, tail for jib trimmer

Jib/Guy Trimmer

Prestart:
Trim jib to course
Tacking:
watch to clear jib sheet on low side, grind and trim jib
Upwind:
Trim jib (reach leads if needed for close reaching can be set), call traffiic
Spinnaker Set:
pull back and trim after guy/foreguy
Downwind:
Trim guy with chute trimmer
Jibe:
Slack lazy guy for bowman, tail back on new guy as soon as it's made while trimmer free flies sheets (if light)
Douse:
Let guy off, trim jib

Main Trimmer

(call to mid for cunningham, outhaul; pit for runner, vang; main trimmer does backstay, traveller, sheet (with fine tune)

Prestart:
Trim main, set backstay
Upwind:
Trim main, work traveller, on rail next to driver
Tacking:
Release jib sheet, trim main, work traveller
Spinnaker Set:
Trim main
Downwind:
Trim main, backstay off, backstay on before douse
Jibe:
Trim main, bring across, call "MAIN'S ACROSS"
Douse:
Trim main,

Tactics

Prestart:
Overall race strategy with crew, driver, call time, confirm shore ranges, time line, etc. Overall calls of sets, douses, etc. Tactical calls with other boats, traffic calls, current, wind shifts, etc.
Upwind:
Leeward watch, etc., then on rail behind driver, work with driver on layline
Tacking:
Stern rail to stern rail
Spinnaker Set:
Call set
Downwind:
Work with driver on downwind position for leeward mark rounding
Jibe:
Work with driver on lay line
Douse:
Call douse

Driver

Prestart:
Check line squareness, run/time line, luff for wind direction, close-hauled compass headings, transits for bowman's shore range, timed run of start, drive
Upwind:
Drive
Tacking:
Drive, call "READY ABOUT" call "HELM'S DOWN"
Spinnaker Set:
Bear off, call set or let tactician call set, drive
Downwind:
Drive
Jibe:
Call "SQUARE BACK" "TRIP" "JIBE HO"
Douse:
Call DOUSE (tactician), drive, primary goal on all maneuvers is to keep boatspeed up while tactician/crew boss deals with problems.

Foredeck Primer

This is a great read, written by a friend of mine.

Foredeck Primer

by: K. Chauncey Wu



Before The Race
Dress for success. Expect to get wet under all conditions except light
air.
Determine your class start time, and write it down if necessary. I
keep track of the time to the start on my own watch.
Check that all spinnakers are packed. Tie all three corners of the
spin together with the head in the middle. This will indicate that
the spin is ready to go, and will help you set up at night or in foul
weather.
For a hatch launch, tie one end of a sail tie to the hatch, and tie
the other end through the corners of the packed spin. I tie one to
the .5 oz spin, and another to the .75 oz spin. Then I can pull up
either sail's corners on deck to rig it.
Run the sheets and guys through their blocks. Then double-check that
everything is run correctly, especially if someone helps you.
Make sure that the spin halyards are untwisted. To stow them, I flip
them behind the shrouds, then clip them off at the mast base and pull
them taut. Make sure you know how to clear the halyard for a clean
spin hoist.
Check the spin pole jaws for smooth action, and lube them if necessary.
Tape or cover all exposed fittings (cleats, hatch handles, etc.)
which could foul lines or tear sails.
Label each corner of the sail inventory, and write the sail code (L1,
H1, 0.5, 0.75, etc.) on the sail. This will help avoid any confusion
during sail changes.
When tying jib sheets on with bowlines, make the loops as small as
possible so they do not foul anything. Leave 6-9 inches of tail in
the knots because they can back out, especially if the line is new.
Carry a sail tie, or have one tied at the mast. I use them to secure
the headsail to the foredeck, among other things.
Work out any starting hand signals with the driver. I typically show
fingers to indicate the number of boat lengths from the bow
perpendicular to the start line.
On a dip-pole boat, place both the spin sheet and guy in the spin
pole jaw. This keeps the spin sheet from getting trapped under the
spin pole jaw, and helps to ensure that the first jibe is a clean one.
On a dip-pole boat, mark the spin pole track and topping lift
positions for the jibe. Also mark the spin guys to ensure that you
have enough slack to reach the bow pulpit before a jibe.

At The Start
Have the driver go around both ends of the start line. Look for a
building, radio tower, etc. on shore which is even with the start
line. This line sight will help you determine how far off of the
line you are.
Call closing traffic for the driver, especially when you are on port
tack.
Pull the foot of the headsail to the forestay to help it around the
mast during the pre-start maneuvers. This will pull the clew
forward, and speed the tack or jibe.
Be careful when jibing the blade jib, as the full-length top batten
can wrap tightly around the forestay. Very bad. Pull down and back
on the clew during the jibe to help prevent this. Also make sure the
trimmers keep tension on the sheets during the jibe.
Have your mastman do the last skirt at the start, so you can stay up
front and call the line.
Place the boat on the line at the gun. Be sure take any current
effects into account. Being OCS is not unusual.

On The Upwind Leg
Call waves, puffs, crab pots, and starboard traffic.
Help get the jib around during the tacks. On smaller boats (~30 ft)
I stand at the mast, and push the jib around. On larger boats (~40
ft), I lay down or kneel on deck next to the hatch and let the jib
sweep over me. Then skirt the jib.
Attach the spin sheets, guys and halyard to the sail. Make doubly
sure that the shackles are fully closed.
After the spin halyard is attached, hold it taut forward of the
shrouds while tacking. Otherwise, it will foul the clew of the jib
and slow the tack down.
If you do a rail launch, make sure that the spin bag is securely
closed. Large waves can beat the spin out of the bag, especially
with the blade jib up. Very slow. In these conditions, clip the top
of the bag to the upper lifeline in front of a stanchion. Also clip
the bottom of the bag to the lower lifeline or the toerail.
If you need to bring the spin gear around to the other side of the
boat (e.g., for a jibe set), clip all of the fittings together, and
get someone in the back of the boat to pull the spin gear to the
other side of the boat for you.
On an end-for-end boat, to reload the guy in the spin pole, slide the
spin pole back along the weather rail until you can reach the jaw,
keeping your weight up and off the bow. Make sure the bridle is not
twisted around the spin pole.

At The Weather Mark
Open the spin bag or forward hatch, and raise the spin pole. Check
that the bridle is not twisted around the spin pole.
On a dip-pole boat, hook up the topping lift over the lazy jib sheet
when doing a bearaway set. This will simplify the first jibe, since
the jib sheet won't fall into the spin pole jaw during the jibe.
If you're doing a jibe set, the topping lift must be under the lazy
jib sheet. Keep tension in the topping lift during the jibe to keep
it from fouling the clew of the jib.
On a dip-pole boat, pull both the guy and lazy sheet through the spin
pole jaw when pre-feeding the tack of the spin.
Control the spin during the pre-guy and pre-hoist. If it is not
banded, wrap your arms around the head and tack of the spin to
prevent it from inflating prematurely.
Feed the spin out quickly during the hoist. Watch for snags which
will tear the spin.
If the spin has an hourglass, pull down on the miter (centerline
seam) or luff tapes. If that doesn't work, ease the halyard 5-10
feet and try again.
Pull the headsail down, back, and into the boat. If the pit dumps
the halyard too fast, stop the jib from going into the water by
pinching the sail at the bottom of the luff track.
Put the head of the sail through the pre-feeder and into the luff
track. Attach the jib halyard to a strop or tack fitting so the pit
can grind the rig forward.

On The Downwind Leg
Call waves, puffs, crab pots, and starboard traffic.
In an end-for-end jibe, have your mastman pull the new guy inboard so
you can reach it. Try to shake the spin pole at the mast. When you
can rattle it, disconnect it from the mast.
Take the new guy from your mastman and load it into the spin pole
end. I think that this is faster than having someone else do it.
Push the spin pole outboard and forward, and attach the spin pole to
the mast. Get your mastman to help you if necessary.
During the jibe, put the jib sheet over your shoulder, then dip the
spin pole underneath it. This gets the jib sheets set up properly
for the leeward mark rounding.
For a dip-pole jibe, pull the lazy guy to your mark, leaving enough
slack to reach the bow pulpit.
Stand in the pulpit facing aft. Call "Ready!" This is the trimmer's
cue to load the new guy on the winch, but NOT to pull the slack out.
Yell at them if they do.
Hold the new guy with your thumb pointing towards the clew of the
spin. Pull the spin pole towards you with the foreguy using your
other hand.
Place the new guy into the spin pole jaw with your thumb pointing
towards the centerline of the boat. Trigger the jaw closed, and call
"Made!" This is the trimmer's cue to pull the guy back.
Push the spin pole away from you hard. Having the spin pole hit you
is not fun.
After the jibe, flip the new lazy sheet inboard of the new guy, so it
doesn't foul the spin pole jaw on the next jibe. Then pull slack in
the new lazy guy to prepare for the next jibe.

At The Leeward Mark
Stretch the jib out on the leeward side of the boat when on final
approach into the leeward mark. Make sure the sail is not trapped
under the foreguy, and that the jib sheets are set up correctly.
If you haven't already done so, flip the lazy jib sheet over the pole
when on final approach. If you are doing a jibe rounding, then get
the lazy sheet over the topping lift. If you can't, then you will
need to unhook the topping lift from the bridle to make the boat
clear to tack.
Pull slack in the topping lift, and secure it to a cleat at the mast.
I prefer to control the topping lift during the leeward mark rounding.
When raising the jib, keep the luff together and flaked forward.
Watch the sail as it goes through the pre-feeder, as the sail can jam
if it is hoisted too quickly.
For a weather douse, have your mastman hold the guy out, and get the
spin pole down and stowed on deck. Pull the spin down and into the
boat. Your first priority should be to get the foot of the spin in
the boat, so that the boat does not drive over it and park.
For a leeward douse, grab the lazy guy (if you have one), sheet or
spin foot, and pull the spin in under the jib. Get the foot of the
spin in, and collapse the spin by gathering it diagonally across the
tack, towards the luff.
Make sure that the jib sheets are not trapped under the spin pole, or
behind the topping lift or spin halyard, then call "Clear to tack!"
If you do a hatch launch, don't disconnect the sheets and guys, and
trap the spin head in the hatch. The theory is that it went in
right, so it will come out right the next time.
Stuff the spin below and stow the spin halyard. Skirt the jib. Get
bodies on the rail ASAP, and clean up later.
If you did a leeward douse, then the spin gear will probably have to
be pulled around to the other side of the boat on the upwind leg.
Clip the sheets and halyard together and pull them around to the
correct side of the boat.
After the boat gets going, repack the spin if necessary, reload, and
do it again!

______________________________________

K. Chauncey Wu